Marley is a
136-pound Cane Corso, and her person was doing his best to drag her into the
exam room. Once in the room, she
retreated behind him, cowering as I approached. Ten minutes of plying her with
treats and happy talk (that silly gibberish we use when we don’t think anybody
is listening!) did not quell her anxiety.
It was abundantly clear that I wouldn’t be able to do any kind of exam. I
actually had to leave the room and have the client take a photo of Marley’s
skin lesion, which he then showed me on his smartphone.
Thank
goodness for digital marvels, but the situation had me yearning for something better: having people train their dogs to enjoy coming to our office, or at least to accept
it without fear.
Besides trembling
and escape behavior, frightened dogs at our animal hospital might also bark,
growl or bite, and act unruly. I vividly recall the grief I caused my mother when
it was time for me to go to the doctor as a child. I remember the frantic sobbing and difficult
behavior, but most of all I remember the fear. I relate to my patients that get
sweaty paws coming to our office.
Acclimating
your dog for a trip to the vet comprises two techniques: desensitization and
counter-conditioning. Desensitization involves exposing the dog to a low-level
stimulus, then gradually increasing the stimulus as the pet gets used to
it. It’s a slow technique unless it’s
combined with counter-conditioning. In
that approach, you train the dog to have a different emotional response to a
situation.
Doing a mock
veterinary exam at home is a good starting point. Depending on your dog’s size, put him on a table
on a mat or towel, or leave him on the floor.
If a small dog hates being picked up, up he goes, then he gets a treat,
then down he goes; repeat a few times a day until he accepts it. Then do the
“exam”: Hold his ears and look in them,
give him a treat; open his mouth and give him a treat; extend his legs, run
your hands over his body, pick up his tail, and anything else you can think of,
always rewarding him with a favorite treat each time.
You’ll want
to do only as much as he feels comfortable with. So if he hates having his tail
touched, start by gently touching it and rewarding him. When he accepts that,
gradually do more and more, rewarding him each time, until eventually he allows
you to pick up his tail. If he pulls
away or shows any fear, you’ve done too much; back off and resume with a lesser
stimulus.
The mock exam
is the desensitization part, and the food is the classical counter-conditioning
part. Always do this training when the dog is hungry.
Once you know
those techniques, you can try other ways to teach him to accept going to the
animal hospital. Pull into our parking lot, feed him a few treats, then
leave. Once he’s comfortable with that,
take him for a walk on the property, periodically giving him treats. You might have to gradually work up to having
him step onto our front porch without fear, but when he does, he’s ready to
come in the door.
The best, but
not only, time to do in-hospital desensitization here at VHAH is between noon
and 1:30 p.m., when there are no doctor appointments. Walk in and tell the
receptionist that you’re just here to train your dog to be relaxed when he has
a real appointment. She’ll really appreciate the fact that you’re such a caring
owner!
Sit in the
reception area and give the dog treats.
When he’s happily munching his favorite snack here, you can leave, and
next time you can go into the exam room -- more treats! Whether it’s during that
visit or another one or 10 visits, work up to putting him on the scale, and
also do your fake exam (put your smaller dog on the exam table). The more often
you can do that, the more productive it will be, but even once a month during
the training period is effective.
Once your
pooch is comfortable taking treats in the exam room, an assistant can come in
and do the same. Just ask the receptionist, and if someone is available they’ll
be glad to give your dog some lovin’. They’re specially trained to know how to
handle scaredy-cats (or, in this case, scaredy-dogs).
Keep the
sessions fairly short, and always end them when the dog is calm, even if it
means backing off a little. So if he’s nervous in the waiting room, take him
outside until he exhibits some type of relaxing behavior. (Sitting, sighing,
tail wagging, or shaking himself are examples.) Then reward him by leaving.
For all appointments,
we recommend that you bring a hungry dog. Food is the best counter-conditioning
tool we have. Some dogs don’t care about treats, so different techniques have
to be used, a discussion beyond the scope of this post. But if a favorite toy
works, bring it with you.
Some dog
owners are jittery when they bring in their best friend. Try your best to stay
calm and act normally; dogs pick up on their owner’s fear. The worst thing you
can do is try to calm your dog by saying “It’s okay! It’s okay!” over and over.
That gives even me the heebie-jeebies!
There are
hard-core fearful dogs that need muzzles, sedatives, or both, and I’ll address
those cases in the future.
As with most
training, this can be incorporated into your routine in short time increments.
If you’re driving past our animal hospital with your dog, take a few minutes to
stop and do a mini practice session. If you touch your dog on a different part
of his body every time you give him a treat, that’s great training, as long as
you gradually increase the stimulus.
Sometimes a veterinary exam is a
life-saving proposition. Dogs like Marley, the Cane Corso, are at a distinct
disadvantage should they need medical intervention. And even if it’s not
life-or-death, every dog deserves a tail-wagging experience at the vet’s, if at
all possible. So unless your pooch is a happy camper at our office, try some of
these tactics. Oh, and did I mention
this? Show up for your appointment with a
hungry dog!
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