A closer look at cloudy eyes

If you’re lucky enough to have a dog or cat live into old age, you’ve seen her eyes develop a hazy, milky appearance. It may have alarmed you because you were worried that she had cataracts and might become blind.

What you’re seeing is a normal age-related change referred to as nuclear sclerosis, lenticular sclerosis, or hardening of the lens. Virtually all dogs and cats over seven years of age have some degree of sclerosis, as do most people over 40. Yes, you read that correctly; it will happen to you, too!

In both people and pets, the lens in the eye continues to grow throughout life. There’s nowhere for those extra fibers to go, so the lens becomes thicker and more dense. The difference between seeing through young eyes vs. old eyes may be compared to the difference between looking through a thin piece of glass vs. a thicker chunk of glass. 

The lens focuses light onto a specific area of the retina, which allows us to see clearly. With sclerosis, light is no longer precisely focused on that central part of the retina, and our vision becomes blurry. And that’s what drives us to go to Walgreens for reading glasses in our early 40s. It’s also the reason most people get surgical lens replacement, or cataract surgery.

We need visual acuity to read, drive a car, recognize shapes and colors, and see objects in fine detail. Because dogs and cats don’t need to read the paper, watch TV, or take the car for a spin, the loss of focus isn’t as critical for them. But that’s not to say they don’t experience some loss of vision. Fortunately, it doesn’t seem to be a problem for them in most cases.

If I can see the architecture of a pet’s retina through my ophthalmoscope, it’s likely that her vision is pretty good, even if her lens is quite hazy. Often, owners of such pets will tell me the pet has problems seeing only in low light. But sometimes I can barely see the colorful reflection of the retina and can’t visualize the retinal blood vessels.¹ Those pets most likely have blurry vision and may have trouble recognizing people and objects by sight. 

In humans, cataracts are considered to be a form of nuclear sclerosis, but in veterinary medicine, we make a distinction between the two.² Cataract development can be a significant cause of blindness in dogs and cats, whereas sclerosis causes less severe visual impairment. Although sclerosis occurs in aging dogs, cataracts may occur at any age for a variety of reasons (congenital, traumatic, age-related, metabolic, post-inflammatory). Cataracts are corrected by surgery, whereas surgery isn’t done for sclerosis. In fact, in spite of ads for magical nutritional supplements, there’s no treatment for sclerosis that has been scientifically proven to be effective. 

So rest assured that your senior pet’s milky eyes most likely are not cataracts and probably bother you more than they do her. But don’t forget to turn the light on when she goes down a dark staircase!

1. Dogs have an amazing structure at the back of their eyes called the tapetum. It’s a colorful reflective surface that allows them to see in the dark. Severe sclerosis prevents much light from reaching this reflective surface, so not only does the normally bright tapetum look hazy to me, but also the dog doesn’t get enough light to the back of her eye to allow her to see in low light.

2. We can usually differentiate between cataracts and nuclear sclerosis with a visual inspection of the eyes with a light source. Cataracts can appear as dots, stars, or other shapes and can even have a sparkling appearance. They may start out as a diffuse haze, much like sclerosis, but often progress and become completely opaque. 

Your cat’s upcoming appointment: Tips for the fairly fearless veterinary visit

When it comes to visits to an animal hospital, the latest buzzword in the veterinary world is “fear-free.” For dogs, a non-stressful experience is quite attainable. But where cats are concerned, I find that jargon amusing. The occasional easygoing critter aside, it’s disingenuous to claim that a veterinary visit with the typical feline is fear-free. More often, a realistic goal is simply to get your kitty to and from the animal hospital with the least amount of angst for both of you. And I can help with that!

According to the American Association of Feline Practitioners, 38% of cat owners say they get stressed just thinking about taking their little buddy to the veterinarian, and 58% report that their cat hates going to the animal hospital. Sadly, that explains the grim statistics that show that dogs are far more likely than cats to get needed veterinary care. To ensure your special feline gets the best preventive care possible for a long, comfortable life, read on.

We need to start at the beginning, long before you leave home, and address the two things that scare most cats far more than the exam room and the doctor: the cat carrier and the car ride.

If you don’t have a carrier¹ or crate, choose one with a hard plastic shell that includes a door on top, or one with an easily removable top (preferably with latches instead of screws). If you buy a soft carrier, pick one that provides easy access to the cat.  It’s much less stressful for your kitty to be lifted out of the top or side of a carrier than to be pulled or dumped out the front. The carrier should be large enough for him to stand, sit, lie down, and turn around in.

It’s not difficult to get a cat to like his carrier, but it can take patience. Place it in the room where he spends the most time, but not in a confined space if he’s afraid of the carrier. He needs to be able to approach it at his own comfort level. Open all the carrier doors; place some soft, familiar-smelling bedding in it; and put a treat inside. Don’t give him any treats except the ones you put in the carrier. If he doesn’t eat treats, put a favorite toy inside. Then ignore the carrier. Don’t try to entice your cat to go in it. Once you notice that the treats you put there are missing, see if he’ll go into the carrier as you toss treats or a toy inside it. If he doesn’t, try the next technique.

You can acclimate your cat to the carrier by placing it a comfortable distance from his food bowl. If he shows fear of the carrier, the bowl is too close. Slowly move the food bowl closer to the carrier, day by day. Again, if he balks at being near it, you’ve moved it too fast. Eventually, you’ll be able to feed him inside the carrier. Once you can do that, close the doors and keep him inside for brief periods of time. When he accepts that, get him used to being carried around the house in it.

Now you can place him in the car for short sessions. Eventually you can progress to starting the car, and finally to taking a few mini car trips around the block. On your preliminary excursions, try to figure out where your cat prefers to ride. Some like having their carrier on a seat where they can see you, but some prefer the floor. Others prefer having the carrier covered. Don’t blast loud music on the radio! Try playing some soft, calming music instead.

Once you reach the animal hospital, you may want to cover the carrier with a towel or small blanket when you walk in the reception area. That is important if your cat is afraid of strangers and dogs. We have a basket of towels in the waiting area for that purpose. You can also give us a call when you arrive, and we’ll alert you when we’re ready for you. That way, you can walk straight into the exam room and avoid the waiting area altogether.

Despite your best efforts, your cat might still be nervous at our office. It’s helpful to spray or wipe his carrier with a calming pheromone, such as Feliway, at least 15 minutes before you put him in it. And feel free to ask us for a sedative. We have a powder, which we provide at no charge, that can be mixed into food a couple of hours before your appointment. There’s no reason why a healthy kitty should have to suffer with fear when we can safely use calming agents to take the edge off his anxiety.

Remember: You might be able to outwit your cat and stuff him unwillingly into his carrier, claws slashing, but we can’t examine a fractious, resistant cat very well. So get the most bang for your veterinary buck, and take the time to prepare your cat for his next visit.

^{1.      1} This isn’t an article about carrier safety, but if you’re interested in that, click here. Sadly, almost all pet crates failed accident simulations done by the Center for Pet Safety. It seems that placing the crate or carrier on the floor behind the front seats was actually safer than securing it with a seatbelt. Hard-shelled plastic crates are safer than soft carriers in the event of a car accident.

  

Beyond the cone of shame

I had just finished suturing the incision on the Shih Tzu’s right hip. Now came the tactical planning:  How could I keep Snookie from tearing out her stitches and mutilating the surgical site?

By far the most common post-op solution to prevent dogs or cats from destroying sutures is the Elizabethan collar, or E-collar. I’ve heard many names for this much-hated apparatus: cone of shame, lampshade, satellite dish, and #@*&! torture device!

I don’t blame our cone-phobic clients. When my last dog needed an E-collar after a surgery, he banged against woodwork, tripped going up the stairs, scooped up mulch from the garden, and delivered countless sharp assaults to my poor, bruised shins (even after I finally resorted to wearing blue jeans in the hot summer weather). 

I’ve heard many a tale of E-collar disasters. There are dogs who make it their mission to knock every knick-knack off shelves and tables, spend countless hours rolling and pawing at the cone, or dramatically howl in mental agony until their spent owners relent and take it off. But the alternatives are worse:  torn-out sutures that need to be redone, self-induced painful hot spots from itching or licking, or bandages that get shredded and eaten, possibly causing an intestinal obstruction.

I can’t say the dreaded E-collar is a thing of the past, but alternative products that prevent self-mutilation in pets have become a cottage industry. Go to any veterinary convention hall, and you’ll find vendors hawking innovative items that often originated at the founder’s home sewing machine.

Sometimes surgery is a last-minute affair, or an angry, infected hot spot must be protected immediately; you won’t have time to surf the Internet for the perfect protective cover-up or contraption. That’s why we have a respectable inventory of E-collars and E-collar alternatives. But if your pet has upcoming elective surgery and you want to forgo the cone, with a little forethought you can choose the perfect substitute from our animal hospital, a pet store, or online. Here are my picks of the best ones, including the ones we have on hand. Prices may vary widely, so do your due diligence.

Medical Pet Shirts   
(Available at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital)

Dogs (11 sizes), cats (5 sizes), rabbits (6 sizes) 

$34.50-$39

They’re made of a breathable, stretchy cotton/lycra fabric, which provides good freedom of movement. They come in two styles, full-body or front-only coverage, with optional add-on front and hind leg sleeves.

For dogs, you’ll need to unsnap and fold up the bottom half when they go outside. The shirts can remain fastened for the majority of cats when they use the litter box.

The availability of many sizes makes these our go-to post-surgical garment. 

Surgical Recovery Suits for dogs and Suits for Cats by Suitical  
(Available at pet stores and online)

Dogs (10 sizes) and cats (4 sizes) 

$35-$40

These are similar to Medical Pet Shirts, although they don’t offer a hind leg sleeve or a front-only option. Both companies have very similar front leg sleeves. Most cats can use the litter box without having to remove the cover-up, an essential feature. As with Medical Pet Shirts, the rear side of the suit should be rolled up when you walk your dog.

Quick Covers 
Not pictured
(Available at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital)

Dogs (12 sizes)  

$34-$62

These are compression garments made for veterinary use. They come in a variety of front and rear sizes, as well as male and female versions. Despite all the options, we find that some of our patients fall between sizes, or that the large openings for the legs sometimes don’t cover the incision. But with a top Velcro closure, they’re fairly easy to take on and off. Very nice for when compression of an incision or wound is desirable.

Bite Not Collar® 

(Available at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital and online)

Dogs (7 sizes) and cats (2 sizes) 
$26-$37

This is similar to a neck brace and may not appeal to some pet owners, but it allows unimpeded peripheral vision and seems to be fairly comfortable. It’s made of flexible plastic and foam, and it’s machine washable. The harness strap helps keep it on. We find that pets can still reach their lower legs and tail with these, and it seems that more than a few dogs fall in between the available sizes. Although Bite Not Collars are also made to fit cats, there are better alternatives out there.

StopBite Collar 



(Available at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital, pet stores, and online)

Dogs, (4 sizes) and cats (2 sizes) 

$20-$35

Think of the Bite Not Collar – on steroids! It uses the same principle, but these are made of tougher plastic and have adjustable snap buckles, which we prefer to the Velcro on the Bite Nots. The limited number of sizes can make a perfect fit difficult.

ZenCollar (Formerly Pro-Collar inflatable collar) 
(Available at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital, at pet stores, and online)

Dogs and cats (6 sizes)

$18-$52

This inflatable doughnut has a sturdy canvas outer layer and an inflatable inner tube. There are Velcro straps on the outside, and fabric loops on the inside that attach to your pet’s collar. Most clients like this product. My only beef is that it can occasionally deflate due to faulty seams, especially with destructive dogs.

Novaguard and Optivisor Recovery Collars 
(Available online)

Dogs (Novaguard: 5 sizes; Optivisor: 6 sizes)

$12-$50

Our clients who have tried these products really like them. They allow dogs to move without getting stuck (great for crates and doggy doors), and the Velcro fastener allows them to fit in a snug manner so they don’t wiggle. They even come tinted for UV ray protection. They can be shortened along stamped grooves at the rim to better fit your dog’s snout length, a very nice feature. Best of all, they don’t cover the ears, which is convenient when ear medications are necessary and which also allows your dog to hear better. And they stay on greyhounds, a breed whose tapering neck and head make keeping E-collars from slipping off a challenge.  

The Optivizor is a smaller version of the Novaguard and is appropriate for use after eye or facial surgery, or for protecting the eyes of blind dogs. It conveniently has a version for dogs with short snouts, such as pugs and bulldogs, and one for long-nosed breeds, such as greyhounds.  

Power Paws by Woodrow Wear 



(Available at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital and online)Dogs (8 sizes plus a greyhound edition for long toes)  

$18-$25 (set of 2)

We originally stocked these to help dogs attain good footing on hard floors, but they’re also useful after foot surgery. They have reinforced toes and are very durable. Some dogs won’t accept having anything on their feet, but most of our canine patients seem to find them comfortable. They can be worn outdoors on dry ground.

Cover Me by Tui  By Tulane’s Closet 

(Available online)

Dogs and cats (7 sizes) 

These soft cotton cover-ups come in a variety of patterns, and in step-in and pullover versions. They are also available in long and short sleeves. There’s a built-in “potty cover” for quick and convenient trips outside. Nicely done!

Anti-Lick Strips 
(Available at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital and online)

Dogs (2 varieties: one for using over bandages, and one for using directly on skin)

$0.50/inch

We usually use these on leg bandages. They’re coated with all-natural ingredients (cayenne pepper, oregano, lemon powder, and clove oil) that taste and smell nasty. They work pretty well, but they don’t always stick as well as we would like them to.

Although the above-mentioned products are commercially available, our creative clients have come up with many of their own post-surgical garments. Thundershirts and doggie shirts can be repurposed to protect healing skin. Human T-shirts and infant onesies can be altered with strategically placed openings to suit your pet.

As for Snookie, the Shih Tzu I mentioned with the incision on her hip? Her owner bought her a pair of sparkly infant tights; a couple of quick snips with scissors to accommodate her tail and allow her to urinate was all it took to make a chic custom garment!

The art of urine collection

We call it “liquid gold” because it’s such a valuable diagnostic tool. With as little as a teaspoonful of urine, we can detect a multitude of ills including kidney disease, endocrine disorders, liver disease, urinary tract infections, even bladder cancer. We realize that the request to “please bring in a urine sample” can cause angst in even our most intrepid clients.  So I’m coming to the rescue with some hints on how to collect urine from your dog or cat.  You’ll never look at popcorn the same way again!

Collecting urine from your dog

Some of our clients prefer that we collect the urine sample. And of course we will, but there are still some guidelines you’ll need to follow. Give your dog plenty of water to drink, and make sure you keep him from urinating for several hours before his veterinary visit. Obviously, you can’t take him for a walk, or let him into the yard, but don’t forget to prevent him from eliminating on the way to the car or once you get to our office. That means you’ll need to pick up your small dog, or run up to our front door with your bigger dog on a leash. If you give him time to sniff, it’s game over! You can also bypass the mad rush to the hospital entrance:  Let us know you’ve arrived, and we’ll come out to your car and collect the urine while you walk your dog.

Before collecting urine yourself, it’s important to clean the tip of the prepuce (the skin that covers the penis) in a male dog and the vulva in a female dog. If that isn’t done, dried cells and mucus can contaminate the sample. Use a clean, moist cloth or a baby wipe.

Containers that can be used for urine collection are limited only by your imagination; the lid from a small jar is suitable for a toy breed, and a margarine container serves well for a bigger dog. Just make sure they’re spotlessly clean, and the right size for your dog. It may be easier to use a ladle or a paper cup that’s taped to a yardstick so you don’t have to bend over.  Or you can borrow our fancy Olympic Clean Catch, which is a professionally designed ladle-like gizmo with a long handle and a removable plastic container on the end. It makes collecting urine easy-peesy!  We also provide free urine collection kits, with a banana split container you can use to catch the sample and a sterile container in which to transport it to the animal hospital. Do you see a disturbing trend using food-related items here?

Collecting urine from your cat

Here’s where the art comes in. We cat lovers know how our feline friends hate it when we tamper with their litter box, but collecting urine necessitates some modification of the status quo.

Try this method, which I find works about half of the time: Place a clean litter liner over the existing litter, or put the entire litter box in a plastic garbage bag. Press the plastic against the litter so your cat can feel the litter through the plastic. She’ll urinate on the liner, and you’ll get a nice, clean sample.

A commonly used method of collecting urine from cats entails replacing their litter with inert substrates. Before using any litter substitute, make sure you wash and rinse the litter box well, or use a litter liner. We sell two litter replacement products that work nicely. One, Kit-4-Kat, is a hydrophobic sand. Urine beads up on the surface and is collected using the provided pipette. Because cats like the feel of the sand, Kit-4-Kat is readily accepted by most felines. Another product we sell is called NOSORB. It consists of tiny, non-absorbent black beads that you scatter in an empty litter box. I prefer that cat owners use one of those commercial products, which are clean and prevent debris from getting in the sample. But I’ve had clients successfully use unpopped popcorn kernels, and even quartz fish aquarium gravel (thoroughly rinsed). With all methods, tilt the box and use a spoon or a syringe to collect the urine. 

Whether dog or cat urine, a fresh specimen is best; samples checked within a couple hours of collection yield the most accurate results. That’s not always possible, so we tell our clients to do the best they can and refrigerate samples that can’t be brought in right away. Any urine is often better than no urine.Occasionally, neither pet owner nor animal hospital employee has success in collecting urine. If a urine sample is essential, or if we need a urine culture, the veterinarian can collect it via cystocentesis. We insert a small needle through the skin directly into a full bladder and withdraw urine. It sounds nasty, but it’s actually painless. Nevertheless, some dogs and cats will need sedation because they don’t tolerate being restrained.

If you want to borrow our Olympic Clean-Catch, need a urine collection kit, or simply need further advice, give us a call; with our assistance, urine good hands!

Finding Rover

Today’s technology is amazing, but it also can be disconcerting. Take facial recognition: This incredible (but creepy) technology can identify individuals in photos even if they are barely in the picture, far in the background, or in a photo within the photo. And it might be able to recognize your photo even if it was taken 30 years ago, when you were in elementary school!

Government agencies aren’t the only ones that have a huge database of faces. So do some churches! If your church employs this software, you might get more requests for donations if you attend regularly, or you might get a call if you stop attending.

Now there’s a new use for facial recognition software that’s amazing and not creepy! It’s an app called Finding Rover, and it helps reunite lost pets with their people by using this technology. 

The CEO and founder of Finding Rover is John Polimeno, a former construction business owner. He had his aha moment as he stared at a lost-dog poster while sitting in a California coffee shop:  If facial recognition software works for people, why can’t it work for pets?

Millions of dollars later, after working with scientists at the University Of Utah Software Development Center and with app programmers, Polimeno saw his idea come to fruition, and Finding Rover was born. A cat version, Finding Kitty, will operate within the app and will launch soon. 

The app, which can be used on a desktop computer or a smartphone (both Android and iOS operating systems are supported), is free and user-friendly. Launch the app, enter your personal information and choose a password. Touch the “More” icon at the bottom of the screen, then touch the “Add Pet” icon. The camera will open. Your four-legged friend won’t sit still? Press the dog head icon next to the shutter button, and immediately a one-second whining puppy cry is heard. Your dog should turn his head toward the camera.

After taking a picture of your pet’s face, you adjust the photo to align his eyes with a horizontal line, filling the frame with his entire head. The instructions then direct you to drag circles around each eye and a triangle around his nose. After filling out your pet’s information, you’re done.

The technology uses 128 facial markers and is highly accurate; 98% of dogs and 99% of cats can be accurately photographically matched.  What about dogs of the same breed, some of whom appear to be identical? It turns out that the more similar a face is to others, the easier it is to identify. 

Once you have installed the app and registered, you can report a lost or found dog. Alerts go to nearby members, dog organizations, and social media. The idea is that when a pet is found, its picture will be added to the network, and a match will be made.

As wonderful as this new use of facial recognition technology is, it doesn’t replace other methods of finding a lost pet:

• Microchip all pets, even if they’re indoor pets only. Log on to your microchip provider’s website and report a lost or found pet.  If you find a lost pet and can find their microchip number (it may be on a tag, or we can access it with our chip reader), you can often find the owner online by going to Pet Microchip Lookup.

• Have an ID tag attached to your dog’s collar.

• Put up posters around your neighborhood with your pet’s picture and your contact information. Ask neighbors, postal workers, and delivery people if they have seen your pet, and give them a poster. Drop some off at local veterinary offices, too.

• Drive around your neighborhood several times a day.

• Call nearby shelters to alert them that your pet is lost, and check with them frequently. You can also contact shelters by computer on various websites such as PawBoost. A poster of your pet will be sent free to area shelters.

• Search “Find lost pets online” on your search engine. There are a number of websites, such as The Center for Lost Pets and PetAmberAlert.com, where you can report a lost or found pet.

• Use a GPS tracking device for your dog; very cool, and a subject for another blog post!

Many of us consider the loss of personal privacy in our society from facial recognition as being ominous. But it’s heartening to know that at least our furry friends can benefit from it!

When is it too cold for canines?

Bitter-cold weather has already visited us this winter, and you can bet that more is on the way. One question from dog owners that often crops up is:  How long can my dog be outside when it’s cold?

It’s important to know the answer, because in Illinois, a law took effect on New Year’s Day that makes it a Class A misdemeanor to expose dogs to life-threatening situations for prolonged periods of time in extreme heat or cold. If you disobey this law, you can be fined up to $2,500 and serve up to a year in the slammer!

I can almost hear what you’re thinking:  What constitutes “extreme cold” and “prolonged periods of time”? My friend Mark emailed me the other day with that question.

Mark has two Samoyeds and a golden retriever, whose privileged lives include access to a dog door leading from a heated laundry room to a large yard. They enjoy the freedom of wandering in and out of the house in all weather, even if Mark isn’t home. The arrangement suited both Mark and his buddies beautifully  ̶  until a few days ago.

That’s when a concerned citizen called the police after seeing Mark’s dogs in his yard on a particularly frigid day. After Mark spoke to a couple of police officers, it became apparent to all of them that the law was vague; some guidelines were needed.

Fortunately, the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University has developed a chart to give us guidance. This is a very handy blueprint, and I used it to do some risk assessment for Mark’s dogs. 

Here’s how they fared, assuming a dry day and a temperature of 10°:

1  Sanibel (47-pound 2-year-old Samoyed):  Because she’s a northern breed and is acclimated to the cold, I subtracted 2 from her score. She’s medium-sized (for our purpose, that’s about 40 to 60 pounds), so I looked in the middle column (note the three dog silhouettes at the top of the chart). Her score at 10° is 3 (unsafe potential).

    Aston (87-pound 6-year-old Samoyed):  Again, he’s a northern breed and acclimated to the cold, so I subtracted 2 from his score. His number in the right hand column at 10° is also 3.

    Bentley (100-pound 6-year-old golden retriever): He’s acclimated to the cold, so he gets 1 point subtracted from a score of 5 in the right-hand column. His score is 4 (dangerous weather; use caution).

Some easy math tells me that at 20°, Aston is in the first category, “no evidence of risk”, while the other two dogs are in the second category, “risk is unlikely, but be careful”.

The chart also takes into account wet weather, which raises the score. What it doesn’t really account for is Mark’s situation; his dogs can go into a warm room any time they want. They are unlikely to suffer any ill effects if their owner is gone for a few hours, even if it’s very cold. I still advised Mark to limit their exposure if the temperature is under 20°, for a couple of reasons. Is it possible that the Samoyeds, a breed that thrives in cold weather, could fall asleep in the sun and suffer hypothermia, or frostbite of the extremities? I’m not sure, but why take a chance? Also, it’s possible that another concerned citizen will notify the police on a future frosty day. A fine could ensue.  

At what temperature, and for how long, is it safe to take Fido for a walk?  A score of 3 shouldn’t keep most dogs from taking their regular walk (although some may need a coat). A 4 score warrants a short walk only. A score of 5 means a super-quick trip to the potty area, donning a thermal doggie coat and booties if your friend is old or frail, has a short coat, is a toy breed, or simply hates the cold and shivers.  

We Midwesterners are made of tough stuff, and we laugh at the cold. But some of our tail-wagging friends may not be as hardy. So when in doubt, use the chart, and let common sense prevail.

We’re not finished with the flu

2015 was notable for the usual litany of memorable events: Syria was in crisis, terrorists struck in Paris, deflated footballs made the national news, the United States and Cuba are speaking again. And we’ll remember 2015 as being the year of Bill Cosby, Caitlyn Jenner, and The Donald.

Those of us with dogs will also remember 2015 as the year of a nasty outbreak of canine influenza in Illinois. It took some time to figure out that this wasn’t the familiar H3N8 strain of flu, but rather a new strain -- H3N2 --  so the existing vaccine was not effective.  Routine frolics in the dog park were curtailed, as were vacations, walks in the neighborhood, and visits to the groomer. 

You probably haven’t heard much about the flu lately, but it’s still a viable concern in Lake and surrounding counties; we continue to see small outbreaks in and around Chicago. A disease is classified as endemic when it’s constantly present within a given geographic area over a long period of time. Epidemiologists now consider H3N2 canine influenza to be endemic in our area of the country. For dog owners, that means we have to consider this new flu a continuing threat.

So the bad news is that the flu has not flown. The good news is that there’s a new vaccine against the H3N2 strain that is safe and effective. 

Puppies as young as 8 weeks can be immunized. After the initial dose, another dose is given two to four weeks later, and then boosters are given yearly. Full immunity occurs two weeks after the second vaccine. If you do the math, you’ll see that it takes a minimum of four weeks to full immunity, so now is a good time to protect your dog.

During the clinical trials for the new vaccine, both vaccinated and unvaccinated dogs were challenged with the H3N2 influenza virus. 42% of the unvaccinated group developed severe clinical signs and had to be euthanized.¹ None of the vaccinated dogs developed serious symptoms, and the vaccine prevented secondary pneumonia and lung damage. No adverse reactions or swelling at the injection site were noted. However, as with all vaccines, once they are given to thousands of dogs we’re likely to see the occasional vaccination reaction. 

The older H3N8 strain of flu is still alive and kicking, and there’s a good vaccine for that, too. It probably doesn’t provide much, if any, protection against the newer flu strain, so experts advise giving your dog both vaccines. Both contain inactivated viruses and can be given together safely. I’ve learned that several drug companies are working on a vaccine that contains both strains.

Does your four-legged friend need to be protected against the flu? It depends on his or her lifestyle. Dogs that go to doggy day care, boarding kennels, grooming facilities, the dog park, dog shows or agility trials, or that are otherwise in close contact with others of their species, are most at risk.

Another consideration is whether any cases have been reported in your area. The problem with waiting for that to happen, though, is that if there’s a local outbreak, you may have to halt your dog’s visits to the park or groomer. Or you may have to cancel your vacation. 

Most upper respiratory infections we see are caused not by the flu but by Parainfluenza, Bordetella, and Adenovirus Type 2.  Like the flu, they are spread by close contact. At-risk dogs should also get the vaccine for those agents. It’s an intranasal, injectable, or oral vaccine that we offer to all of our clients.

I’m conservative regarding vaccines; there are some that we don’t even have at our hospital. But given the severity of last year’s flu epidemic, I think all healthy dogs in our area that are at risk should be vaccinated. As events develop, the doctors at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital may change this recommendation. But for now, it seems like the prudent thing to do. 

^1.    In a natural outbreak of the H3N2 influenza, 100% of exposed dogs will contract the virus. 20% will have no clinical signs (but will still shed the virus and spread the infection). That means 80% will get sick. The mortality rate is less than 10%, which, although not even close to the 42% in the study, is still scary. 

Great pet gifts for this holiday season

One of the highlights of Christmases past has been watching my pets open their gifts. My favorite memory is of my gentle dog, Chris, frantically tearing at the wrapping paper while making excited wuffing noises. Upon opening the package and finding his favorite fleece Chewman toy, he trotted merrily around the house, continuously squeaking it. The grand finale was when he removed the noise maker with surgical precision. A short-lived plaything, but his joy made it worth every penny.

Not only do dogs and cats enjoy opening presents, but their people do, too. And dog and cat owners appreciate pet-related gifts. To that end, I’ve been keeping a list of noteworthy goods that are veterinarian approved ─ by me, of course! 

Here are my top picks for Christmas, 2015: 

Laurel Burch™ Wild Cats Mugs  $16.95 each

I love these elegant 12-ounce microwave- and dishwasher-safe mugs. They’re chic and come individually packaged in brightly colored artsy boxes. 

Kyjen Outward Hound Port-a-Bowl  $4 - $17

A must for the active outdoor dog! It dries quickly and collapses to fit in  your packpack, pocket, or purse, and it can be used for food or water on the go. Every pooch can use a refreshing drink of water during his walk on a hot day. 

 

Cat climber (Door Hanger)  $99.95

I wish that I had thought of this – brilliant! This cat tree fits a standard 80-inch door, but its spring-loaded bracket system allows it to adjust to similar-size doors. And the post is made of sisal for scratching.  Move it from door to door to give your cats a new view. 

CustomRenaissance pet portrait cell phone case  $49.99

Show off your pet every time you pick up your cell phone: Have his or her picture incorporated into a custom Renaissance portrait for your iPhone or Samsung Galaxy phone case. Choose among characters such as a king, queen, guard, beggar, saint, jester, maid, or general ─ from humble quadruped to King Henry VIII in the blink of an eye!

Rustic Copper Bent Grill RaisedFeeder by Unleashed Life 3 sizes, $82-$207

You’ve just spent megabucks redecorating your kitchen. Do you really want to plunk that nasty old chipped dog bowl down on the floor?  Mon Dieu, non! Besides, veterinarians recommend raised feeders for your pet’s comfort. From the metal grillwork base in an aged copper finish to the natural slate top, this feeder combines elegance and rustic charm. Sure, it’s ridiculously pricey; but your chien spécial deserves to eat in style!

Sleepypod mobile pet bed $139.99-$179.99

It’s a bed! It’s a carrier! It’s a safe car seat! It’s all three products in one. Turn it from a bed into a carrier by zipping on the mesh dome. A seat belt can be fastened through the handle for travel. I especially love this for cats, who will enjoy traveling in the comfort and familiarity of their own bed. What a great way to reduce stress on those visits to the vet! 

Drinkwell Ceramic Pagoda Fountain for Pets $79.95, in taupe, blue, red, or white

Veterinarians recommend fountains to encourage water drinking, especially for senior cats and dogs. My objection to the ones that I’ve owned is that they get slimy and are hard to clean. And they’re ugly!  Drinkwell has come out with a fountain with simple, elegant lines. Not only is it attractive, it’s made of easy-to-clean ceramic, and it’s dishwasher safe. It has an upper and lower dish to accommodate both small and medium-sized pets. The carbon water filter helps keep the water fresh. 

Wheel House Socks $10.95 


These comfy socks come in multiple sizes and colors. With dozens of breeds from which to choose, they're the perfect stocking stuffer for the dog lover in your life. 

Zogoflex  $7.95 - $10.95

I researched the best chew toys for dogs in a previous post, and these came out on top. They won’t fracture teeth, and they’re environmentally friendly:  When you send your worn-out Zogoflex toys back to the company, West Paw recycles them into new ones. They come in a variety of colors and shapes, so there’s a good chance you’ll find one that your buddy approves of.

Nina Ottosson's Interactive Dog Tornado  $24.99

Interactive feeding toys help slow hasty eaters, and this one makes meals more interesting. Your dog will learn to turn the revolving sections to reveal his vittles. The Tornado allows you to gradually increase the level of difficulty as his skill improves. Dogs like to have a job, and this feeder gives them a sense of accomplishment.

Rope Slip Lead, 4 feet and 6 feet  $7.99

A humble gift, yes, but one much favored by veterinarians, shelters, and trainers. We use these at Vernon Hills Animal Hospital. When our clients feel how soft and well made these rope leads are, they invariably ask where we got them and buy a couple for themselves.

SureflapMicrochip Pet Feeder $149

Do you have a feline food bully at home who nudges your other cats out of the way and eats too much food? I do, so when I saw this microchip feeder I had to have it!  It works with your cat’s existing microchip (or we can insert one for you) or with the included tag. When your pet approaches the feeder, a covering slides up and allows her to eat. When she’s finished, it quietly closes. The two bowls, which are suitable for both dry and wet food, seal tightly to ensure freshness. I love that it runs on batteries, so there are no cords.

If you think $149 is pricey, consider the financial implications of diabetes and other obesity-related diseases, which can cost hundreds of dollars in vet bills every year. Now our clients whose cats are on weight-loss and prescription diets won’t be able to steal other cat’s food and overeat.  Awesome!

Pet Tree Houses   $199-$1999

Ridiculously expensive, but so cool I just had to include these. They’re made from real trees embellished with silk foliage to give your feline friend a lifelike experience. The trunk can be used as a scratching post. But there’s no need to spend megabucks to own one. For someone good at woodworking, I think this would be a fun, reasonably priced do-it-yourself project.

Happy shopping, and happy holidays to you and your family members, including the furry ones!